The end of Abbey’s “Solitaire” has weighed on my mind since I moved to the four corners 10 years ago. His central thesis - that the desert southwest has no beating heart, no center - is something I’m beginning to disagree with.
Up ‘till rather recently I was in agreement. The bend in the canyon always leading me onward but never to any sort of an essence or understanding.
But with a solid decade under my belt wandering around the area I’m increasingly growing certain that the Plateau does in fact have a beating heart and that so many of the “hot spots” are shades of the center.
So like an onion, layer after layer is pealed until…….
And its not without some blemishes. In fact, there is a beautiful paradox that the beating heart has been so defiled and thus a place to avoid for so many.
But things are changing. Bleached slickrock slowly again is streaked with varnish, and old full pool fire rings sit long since abandoned.
Canyons trickling with water are slowly pushing downstream and reclaiming their territory
With a historic map we see that we’re about 250 feet or so from what was once a supposedly incredible rock art panel. We take a lunch break where the lake begins and think about coming back with gray hair and a few wrinkles to see that panel.
But lets not get ahead of ourselves. There is still much to see and do.
A defining characteristic of the area is endless slickrock the likes of which I have yet to see anywhere else
Allowing for intricate routes to be pieced together. Pick a direction and head out.
And it doesn’t take long to realize that yes, this is it. The apex. All the elements coming together in one place.
Navigating can be maddening. Especially when trying to find a route “out” because you want a glimpse…….
You finally find that route and sit atop a formation that harkins back to the ole’ days, to the Glen. Look at that country across the lake……..
And of course, you are not the first person to realize it. Abbey echoes across time.
Its’ quiet out here. Not many foot prints. There can be moments of real pain sitting where canyon becomes lake. But I’m beginning to feel the pulse above the stagnant water away from rivers edge. Its immense, there is much to see. 10 years in and I’ve just stumbled onto it. It will be increasingly difficult to spend time elsewhere………